Levi's 501 vs 505 vs 517: Which Vintage Cut Fits Your Body Best
Shopping for vintage Levi's can feel like reading a secret code. Three little numbers, 501, 505 and 517, and each one fits your body in a completely different way. The good news is that once you understand what those numbers mean, choosing becomes easy. Let us walk you through it, so you find the pair that actually suits your shape.
Here is the key idea before we start. The number is not a size. It is a cut, which means the shape of the jean: how roomy the waist and thighs are, and how the leg falls from the knee down.
The Levi's 501: the straight, roomy original
The 501 is the grandparent of all jeans. It first appeared way back in the late 1800s and has barely changed since. Two features define it. First, a button fly, which means it closes with a row of buttons instead of a zip. Second, a straight leg that is the same width from the knee down to the hem (the bottom edge of the trouser).
The 501 sits at or near your natural waist, so it is a higher-rise jean. Rise is simply the distance from the crotch to the top of the waistband. A higher rise covers more of your belly and lengthens the look of your legs.
The number is not a size. It is a cut, the shape of the jean.
Who does the 501 love? Almost everyone, honestly, which is why it is a classic. It is especially flattering if you want to define your waist or if you carry a little more around the middle, because the higher waist holds everything comfortably. The straight leg balances curvier hips too.
The Levi's 505: the easy, zip-fly straight leg
The 505 arrived around the middle of the twentieth century as a more modern option. It looks a lot like the 501 at a glance, but there are two important differences.
- It has a zip fly instead of buttons, so it is quicker to get on and off.
- It has a slightly lower rise and a bit more room through the thigh, with a straight leg that stays fairly slim.
Think of the 505 as the relaxed cousin of the 501. Because it sits a touch lower and is not too tight anywhere, it is a great all-rounder for straighter, leaner body types who find the 501 waist a little loose. It is also a favourite for anyone who simply does not enjoy fiddling with a button fly.
The Levi's 517: the classic bootcut
Now for the fun one. The 517 is a bootcut, which means the leg is fitted through the thigh and knee, then gently flares wider from the knee down. That little flare was originally designed so the trouser could sit neatly over a boot, hence the name.
The 517 gained real popularity in the 1970s, and it has that unmistakable retro spirit. Here is a useful trick: because the leg widens at the bottom, it visually balances wider hips and makes the whole leg look longer and leaner. That flare is your friend.
The 517 is a brilliant choice if you have fuller thighs or hips, or if you love a taller, elongated silhouette. Pair it with a heeled boot and the magic really shows.
A quick guide by body type
Every body is different, so treat these as friendly starting points, not strict rules.
- Curvier hips and waist: reach for the 501 first. The high waist and straight leg flatter and hold.
- Straight or lean frame: the 505 tends to sit best, easy and neat without gaping.
- Fuller thighs, or you want longer-looking legs: the 517 bootcut balances everything beautifully.
One more tip for vintage shopping. Older Levi's can run differently from modern sizes, and denim that has never been washed may shrink. So always trust the actual measurements over the number printed on the tab, and when you can, try before you buy.
The bottom line
There is no single best cut, only the best cut for you. The 501 is the timeless straight-leg original with a button fly. The 505 is the same easygoing straight shape with a zip and a touch more room. The 517 is the retro bootcut that flares to flatter your hips and lengthen your legs.
At Better Than New, every pair of vintage Levi's has already lived a life, softened by years of wear into something no new jean can copy. Choosing second-hand means one more great pair of jeans stays out of the bin and gets a second life, and it means you walk away with a piece that is genuinely unique. Come and find the cut that was made for your body among our vintage denim.